Pasta Nero, Squid Ink Pasta Without Squid Ink

This is my modern adjustment of a fairly funky traditional pasta dough made for fresh seafood.

I enjoy this method much more, as does my daughter, who has enjoyed mastering the technique of fresh pasta making from a very young age. It does not involve “squid ink,” and it is also not black or an offensively colored gray. It should result in a beautiful orange-bronze and offer a rich and forward Umami balance.

I am very, very serious about pasta, and for good reason. Such a simple creation is not merely a vessel but an expression of place, season, patience, and careful sourcing.

Flour is your first consideration. Ideally, you want to use flour milled within one year of harvest from native wheat. That means the variety of wheat grown is native to where it is being farmed, organically or biodynamically.

Even people with gluten allergies can consume native wheat grown in their region. Washington, New York, and Vermont farmers have pioneered this practice, regenerating the land and nourishing souls.

That said, if you cannot find a native wheat in your area, I would still use one of these sources to support the practice, and it will be better than anything you’ll find at the standard market. Whole Foods Market has several options in various regions and online. I would advise highly against using commercially available Italian type “00” flour unless you are ordering or buying from or in Italy from a biodynamic or biologique source.

I would not have said this ten years ago, but we evolve.

Secondly, and there is no way around this one, local, actually pasture-raised, organic chicken eggs. Preferably your own or someone you know. I cannot express the importance of this; it is paramount to your success. Again, if you cannot source this way, Whole Foods Market always carries a local, organic, and truly pasture-raised producer. If that fails, Vital Farms Organic is the only others I would use.

Next is the highest quality and freshest extra virgin olive oil you can afford.

Lastly, in place of the Skiify Squid Ink, I use Third Coast Fish Sauce made in the Saignee style, meaning it is not pressed, the lighter-colored free jus is bled off before we press, and it is not barrel-aged. The minerality of this fish sauce is amazing, and the depth of flavor and saltiness will bring out the best in your other ingredients, creating a uniquely opulent yet approachable pasta that screams for braised greens, capers, and olives.

But you decide and play. Enjoy!

Pasta Nero

Ingredients (serves 4-6)

3 cups highest quality organic flour, plus extra for working (milled extra fine)

3 whole eggs

2 egg yolks

1 Tbsp Third Coast Fish Sauce

Drizzle of highest quality extra virgin olive oil

Organic Semolina for dusting

Method

If you know how and prefer to make pasta dough by hand, I do not need to explain that here, but I will describe a much easier and kid-friendly food processor method.

Step 1. Place the flour in the processor bowl.

Step 2. Lightly whisk the eggs, yokes, and fish sauce together. Do not fully emulsify.

Step 3. Add the liquid to the flour and pulse slowly until the dough forms small balls.

Step 4. Remove the dough from the processor onto a very lightly floured surface. Knead the dough, turning 90 degrees with every motion, until the dough ball is silky smooth. Silky smoothness is the key. Now wrap in plastic completely and allow to rest at room temperature for one hour. If you are resting for longer, you should refrigerate. It will last perfectly without discoloring for around 12-18 hours.

The Fun Part: aka- Snap, Crackle and Pop

Laminating pasta is a measure of patience. It is where your human energy and the energy of the pasta harmoniously combine in a graceful and beautiful ballad of movement and synchronicity.

It is not what you see on a master chef, a seconds-long, rushed, two-punch. To be clear, I do not watch “Master Chef”; it’s B theater at best.

Begin by “dusting” your workspace, at least five feet long, with flour. Run your hand across it, and make it your home. If you plan to make ravioli, have a couple of clean kitchen towels. Breathe. If your pasta has been refrigerated, make sure it rests at room temperature for one hour now.

Unwrap your pasta ball; it should be shiny, silky, and very aromatic.

Depending on the size of the pasta machine you are using, begin by cutting a third or a fourth of the ball off, dust lightly with flour, and rewrap the rest. Set aside.

Work the pasta with your hands against the surface and in your hands without folding, stretching as needed until you reach a uniform-ish rectangular shape.

On the highest setting of your machine, run the ball through straight. Fold the pasta sheet back onto itself and run through it again at the same setting.

You will start to hear the dough snap, crackle, and pop!

Lower the machine to the next lowest setting, and turn your sheet 90 degrees. Run the sheet through, repeating the first step by folding it back onto itself and running back through.

Your sheet will need more flour at some point, but add a dusting and wipe off excess with your hand. You will have to learn the balance of too much and too little flour by experience.

Wait to lower the machine past the third highest setting until you have achieved a uniform sheet that fits perfectly to the edge of the rollers.

For each sequential lowering and passing, you will do three things: the initial pass, the first fold, and then the second fold with the 90-degree turn before you run through your final 3rd time on that setting. This allows the glutens to expand equally, creating a silky texture and extra bite when cooked.

I will bring the sheet down to a 2 for cut pasta for most machines. If you are making Ravioli sheets, you will bring the sheet down to 1, even 0.5, depending.

After achieving this long, precariously thin, delicate pasta sheet, it should be translucent. Lay it in one-foot length layers and cover gently with a dry kitchen towel to keep it moist.

You'll have to wait for the next recipe for a spring ravioli filling.

Love and Light, Steven